In Bourdain’s wake: Beer, shared plates and almost-loves
For the past few years, depending on what city I’m in, I’ve been making pit stops at bars graced by Anthony Bourdain on his travels. I never intended for this pilgrimage to gain such momentum, but it’s the perfect set up. I can operate without a plan, and theoretically I will never run out, because they’re located all over the world.
To the people I've met along the way. . .
The Group in Marfa who made it feel like I actually had friends to celebrate my 30th birthday with. The Former Stoop Kid from Brooklyn who spent all day at The Met with me. The Russian Girl who shared her cigarettes, talked Bulgakov because Dostoevsky was too depressing, and with all the earnestness in the world asked me if I was happy outside of some Irish bar I can no longer remember the name of. The Dates who I somehow almost always manage to talk into getting uni with me and footing the bill. . .Thank you.
And. . .To the Former Chef turned Corporate Bro. . .I have never quite enjoyed sharing a meal like I did with you. It's a shame things turned sour. However, I'd like to remind you that I was the one who simply asked you out for a beer so you could tell me about that steak frites you had at Les Halles. You were the one who turned it into a dinner date. If we ever have another run in, it's probably better for us both if we pretend like we never met each other, but I will always think about how you left me the last piece of pork tongue salad.
Thanks for everything, Tony. I hope you don’t mind that I carry your 6’4” lanky ghost with me on these adventures like some kind of protective talisman. I need the help, and I think it’s time the ladies took back some ownership of you anyway. You’re too Romantic for the boys, and this is payment for all those 4 a.m. solo walks in Tokyo your male privilege allowed you.
You would've hated Bourdain Day, but while I don't believe in God or miracles, I do think you're a saint in your own right. Sorry you had to end everything for some of us to take an interest in our own lives again.
No matter how far or wide you travel, you're supposed to come back a little different than when you left.
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(Shelby Ligon - June 25, 2025)
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